Wednesday, May 01, 2002

Day 13: Lerici-Castelmuzio

We have our last Doria Park breakfast on this trip. Before we leave the hotel, Luigi takes us up to the roof of the hotel where they are now working on five new suites. They should be ready for use this summer. They will have large terraces and jacuzzis; Luigi is very excited about having these new, spacious rooms to rent. We take one last drive through the town, but we can't find any place to park, so we head out towards Tuscany. We drive on the back road along the Magra River for a while and stop to buy some produce at one of the many farm stands that are selling fresh fava beans and strawberries. The strawberries are very ripe, with a lovely texture.

We pass a park on the seashore where we see a sign for a picnic for the Communist Party....they are having their May Day celebration.

It is a very fast trip on the autostrada to Florence where we pick up the superstrada (free) to Siena. We get off and take some back roads to our next stop in Castelmuzio, a small village about 45 minutes south of Siena. This area of Tuscany is stunningly beautiful. The land is less forested and the terrain is more gentle than in Chianti--the hills seem to undulate and the vistas are wide and deep. In early May, most of the hills are a vivid green and it is a pleasure just to drive along the winding roads taking in new views at every turn. Sometimes, when driving on a ridge, you get these kind of views in both directions.

The landscape is also dotted with a number of small hill towns which provide a brown contrast to the green fields.....often, you see four or five of these villages at the same time.

Castelmuzio is one of these small towns. We have become friendly with Mark and Rebecca Abouzeid--he is American and she is Australian; they have lived in Castelmuzio with their two young daughters for about four years. They have a internet villa and apartment rental business called InTuscany.net that they run out of their home. My clients have rented some of the wonderful properties that they represent. They also make olive oil from their own trees. They have invited us to stay in the newly-restored villa on their property--they did the interior design themselves and much of the work--before they begin renting it out. For a look at the villa, go to http://www.intuscany.net/villas/villa_nell_oliveto.htm

Their property is just outside the village walls and has one of those fantastic views. To the south, you can see Pienza, the Val d'Orcia and Monte Amiata in the distance. To the north, you see the village of Montisi and its countryside. The new villa, which sleeps ten, is not quite finished--they have asked us to test drive it and let them know what is still needed--but it is everyone's dream of a villa...tile floors, beamed ceilings, beautiful views from all the windows, a terrace, modern baths, space to eat outside. They have just finished installing a large pool, where you can swim and enjoy the views at the same time.

We spend the afternoon sitting near the pool, watching the children swim and catching up with Mark and Rebecca. The weather is also beautiful--the sun is shining and makes the countryside sparkle. I take a short stroll in the village but everything is closed today because of the May Day holiday.

They have invited us to dinner tonight so we go over to their house about eight and have a glass of wine sitting in their dream kitchen, while Rebecca gets dinner ready. Dinner is informal--pasta with a spicy parsley sauce, grilled sausages and salad- served in their spacious dining room. They are very hospitable and we are having a very good time.

After dinner, we walk back across the property and are amazed at the brightness of the many stars in the night sky.

Jim and Diana